A wide range of music falls under the label of jazz: turn-of-the-century Dixieland, postwar bebop, 1970s fusion, even that Dave Koz Christmas CD you've heard at your office holiday party. At their best, what these styles have in common is a spirit of improvisation and complexity — a penchant for unpredictability.
According to jazz aficionado Gerard Bertrand, improvisation and complexity are also characteristics of the wine he's been producing since childhood (and under his own label since 1992).
In his memoir "Wine, Moon and Stars," he writes: "Jazz is to music what terroir is to wine. … Jazz exists in different forms, just as wine comes from an infinite variety of grapes and regions. Each vintage, even issued from the same patch of earth, will be different from the next."
Since 2004, Bertrand has combined his passions for music and wine in one event: Jazz a L'Hospitalet, an annual festival staged at his Chateau L'Hospitalet in Narbonne, in southern France's Languedoc region.
At the invitation of Bertrand and Sud de France tourism, I attended last summer's edition, which held its own share of surprises for me, dispelling some of my preconceptions of how a jazz festival in southern France might play out.
The event draws locals and visitors alike to Chateau L'Hospitalet, which also served as my accommodations for the weekend. The 4-square-mile estate, comprising buildings dating as far back as the 16th century, offers three room types.
A Superior room at the Chateau L’Hospitalet in Narbonne, France. Several of the estate’s buildings date to the 1700s.
My Classic room (about $195 per night during summer) was a bit cramped but comfortable, and amenities included a complimentary bottle of Bertrand's Code Rouge (despite its name, actually a white wine, though in a striking ruby-colored bottle). Moving up the scale, also available are 323-square-foot Superior rooms (about $239) and Collection rooms (about $311) measuring up to around 540 square feet. All rooms include complimentary WiFi.
Also on the estate grounds are L'Art de Vivre restaurant, a pool, a tasting cellar and art exhibit space. In July and August the chateau offers free guided tours of the grounds.
Guests can also arrange for tours of the area's other Bertrand estates: One morning we took a 45-minute drive to Chateau la Sauvageonne, Bertrand's latest acquisition, for a look at its vineyards as well as the stunning views of the countryside from an altitude of about 1,000 feet.
Those who can't make the festival, yet are still interested in catching some jazz during their visit, needn't despair: The Chateau L'Hospitalet schedules Friday evening performances year-round.
Oysters were on the menu for dinner at Jazz a L’Hospitalet. Photo Credit: TW photo by Eric Moya
Jazz on a summer's day
The level of talent booked for Jazz a L'Hospitalet rivals that of much larger festivals, and part of the appeal is seeing big-name acts in a scaled-down setting, preceded by a dinner buffet offering a wide selection of entrees and appetizers (including oysters from the Med just minutes away) and, of course, Bertrand wines to accompany it all. As a wine novice, I was relieved by the casual, help-yourself vibe.
The festival's past performers have included Earth, Wind and Fire; Kool and the Gang; and saxophonist Maceo Parker. For 2017, I missed the first and second nights (headlined by Norah Jones and Italian singer Zucchero, respectively) but I knew I'd arrive in time for the third night's headliner, French R&B singer Ben L'Oncle Soul. In preparation, I downloaded a bunch of his tunes, and a couple in particular caught my ear: his breakout hit "Soulman" and a cover of the White Stripes' "Seven Nation Army" that traded the original's grungy swagger for a Muscle Shoals backbeat.
So I was anticipating the White Stripes, but instead I got Sinatra. The crowd of about 1,500 did hear "Soulman," but Ben L'Oncle Soul mostly played tunes from his latest album, a tribute to Ol' Blue Eyes. I enjoyed his set — "Strangers in the Night" in particular, which he reworked into a Donna Summer-esque disco tune — so although I would've liked to hear "Army," the Sinatra set list was a pleasant surprise.
Wine and song in southern France
On the other hand, no research was necessary to get up to speed on the final night's headliner, George Benson. I've been a fan ever since hearing "Breezin'" and "On Broadway" as a kid, and judging by the audience's reaction, they were intimately familiar with his catalog, as well.
"Turn Your Love Around," "Nothing's Gonna Change My Love For You," "Give Me the Night": Few in the crowd remained seated for those hits, and many rushed the aisles for a little dancing room. "Give Me the Night" in particular seemed to resonate with the all-ages audience, and perhaps the lyrics had something to do with them getting into the spirit of things: "You need the evening action/A place to dine, a glass of wine."
Ever the crowd-pleaser, Benson nevertheless surprised the audience when he asked if anyone was a fan of country music. He then launched into "Wichita Lineman," sticking faithfully to Glen Campbell's version. I'd be reminded of this touching tribute mere days later, when Campbell died at age 81.
With Benson's performance, my time in Narbonne drew to a close, and I came away thinking that for France visitors seeking a little evening action, a place to dine and a glass of wine (or several), Jazz a L'Hospitalet would fit the bill nicely.
Of course, as with vintages of wine, or a musician's performance of a jazz standard from one gig to the next, it's likely to be different every year. But if my 2017 experience is any indication, any edition of the festival is likely to be, as Sinatra might have put it, a very good year.
Jazz a L'Hospitalet tickets start at $250 per evening, and admission includes dinner and wine. For ticket sales, concert lineups and more, see www.gerard-bertrand.com. For more on tourism in the region, visit http://en.destinationsuddefrance.com.