When the El Al gate agent at New York JFK quizzed me on why I was traveling to Israel — religious or ethnic affiliation? Friends there? Business? — I had a simple, two-word answer: bucket list.
For while the itinerary of the trip, organized by the Israel Ministry of Tourism, included visits to iconic sites such as the Western Wall and Masada, the overall theme was designed to cast a wider net; that is, visitors of any stripe looking for a mix of education, culture, cuisine and fun.
With a nod to the increasingly high international profile of Israeli cuisine and wine, we started our adventure with dinner at Doctor Shakshuka restaurant in Jaffa, a hipster eatery with exposed-brick walls, indoor/outdoor seating and a barrage of made-to-order courses. In fact, shakshuka, a dish consisting of eggs cooked in a savory tomato sauce, became an addictive staple during our trip, turning up at breakfast buffets daily, except on Saturdays, when cooking is prohibited.
We toured Old Jaffa, the ancient seaport that Jonah embarked from before being swallowed by a whale, according to the biblical story, and where the old train station has been turned into a vast entertainment venue with live performances and interactive exhibits.
Although I was familiar with the tragic history of our next stop, the fortress of Masada, I wondered if travelers less informed might not fully appreciate the experience. I need not have worried, because the visit to the Unesco World Heritage Site begins with a short film that explains in vivid detail the harrowing story of the Jewish revolt against the Romans and the mass suicide that took place there in A.D. 73.
We ended our day at the Isrotel Dead Sea Hotel, where we threw our suitcases into our room, donned swimsuits and raced to the sea for an entertaining if somewhat awkward floating experience. Because the Dead Sea is so full of salt and other minerals, bathers tend to bob on the water like corks, so much so that it's a good idea to have someone with you in case you topple onto your face and have trouble turning over. We made the rookie mistake of not wearing water shoes, not realizing that the seabed has sharp deposits that make getting in and out of the water challenging.
All that said, we went back the next morning for more, pulling up chairs by the shore to watch the sun rise, then lounging in the indoor/outdoor, saltwater spa pool.
The property, one of the nicest we experienced during our travels, also offers signature Dead Sea mud treatments at the spa, a kids club and WiFi.
Saddled camels at the Sfinat Hamidbar Bedouin settlement in the Negev. Photo Credit: Felicity Long
Another highlight was a visit to the Sfinat Hamidbar Bedouin settlement in the Negev, where we rode camels, enjoyed a tented meal of local specialties amid ritualized servings of coffee and tea and were told stories about Bedouin life, translated by our Israeli guide.
The more courageous among us took turns rappelling off a cliff at Ramon Crater, a landform millions of years old, under the watchful eye of an instructor, after which we boarded a four-wheel-drive vehicle for a gorgeous (if teeth-rattling) ride with Art4Tour through the Negev desert.
We approached our next stop in two stages: an afternoon visit to the modern city of Jerusalem followed by a lengthier exploration of Old Jerusalem the next day.
In the bustling modern city, we visited the Machane Yehuda Market, the Knesset Menorah and the Israel Museum, where the Dead Sea Scrolls are exhibited at the Shrine of the Book. We wandered through the outdoor sculpture gardens and saw the model of the city from the time of the second temple. Exhibitions also include such secular and provocative fine art as "Maybe, Maybe Not" by Ai Weiwei and "In Full Color, 60 Years of Design" by Dan Reisinger.
That night we dined at Adom restaurant, located in the Feingold courtyard in Jerusalem's city center, overseen by chefs Moti Davis and Elran Buzaglo and offering seasonal specialties and an extensive wine list. After dinner we took in a sound and light show at the Tower of David Museum, which depicts the history of the country with over-the-top animation and music.
Each of us brought our own expectations to our visit to Old Jerusalem, which has the distinction of being the home of key sites for Muslims, Christians and Jews but which is also steeped in enough historical significance to appeal to just about anyone.
Highlights of the day included visits to the Western Wall, where we enjoyed the Look Into the Past virtual reality experience, which puts viewers in the midst of temple life from 2,000 years ago. We capped off the visit with a guided Western Wall Tunnels Journey, which took us deep into the underground maze below the complex.
One of the most fascinating elements of the Old City is its melange of cultures, as we discovered when we followed the Via Dolorosa in the Christian quarter and visited the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, then wandered the reconstructed Jewish quarter, the Arab market and the Cardo, the ruins of a main street from ancient Roman times.
We stopped for midafternoon hummus and kebabs at Neora, a restaurant in the Arab-Israeli town of Abu Ghosh, less than 10 miles from Jerusalem, before continuing on to Tel Aviv for a final exploration of the so-called White City, a Unesco World Heritage Site and home to many examples of Bauhaus architecture.
From our accommodations at the beachfront Herods Hotel, we took advantage of the activities along the boardwalk, which include biking, swimming and shopping.
We also spent a few hours touring the Neve Tzedek neighborhood, one of Tel Aviv's oldest districts. Neve Tzedek has undergone a fashionable renaissance in recent years, its tiny boutiques and tree-lined streets offering a laid-back respite from the bustle of downtown.
Finally, our journey ended where it began, with another gourmet dinner. This time it was at Yulia restaurant on the waterfront, spearheaded by chef Roman Dimant, and offered everything from ceviche to fried whole fish, accompanied by the hypnotic sound of ocean waves.