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Loire Valley enchants with chateaus, gardens

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The Chateau de Chambord, one of the largest chateaus in the Loire Valley, is a must-see for first-time visitors
The Chateau de Chambord, one of the largest chateaus in the Loire Valley, is a must-see for first-time visitors

For Francophiles, the thought of picking a favorite region is almost akin to choosing a favorite child. Can't be done.

That said, if forced I would set my sights on the Loire Valley, a popular but not overrun destination that got its hooks into me when I was a college student living in Paris and has never let go.

Back then, it took hours on the train to get from Paris to Tours, the de facto capital, from where we would set out in all directions depending on how much time and disposable income we had to spend.

Enter, in 1990, the TGV high-speed rail service, which zips from Paris' Montparnasse station to Tours in about an hour, and all that changed -- putting the Valley of Kings within easy daytrip distance.

But just because you can get there and back from Paris in less time that it takes many people to commute to work doesn't mean you should; making the region home base for a multiday stay is an even better idea.

The water mirror effect on the Chateau de Chenonceau, which spans the river Cher.
The water mirror effect on the Chateau de Chenonceau, which spans the river Cher. Photo Credit: ADT Touraine/Loic Lagarde

Les chateaux

There are more famous chateaus in the region than you could count, but 42 of them are considered exceptional enough to be Unesco World Heritage Sites. 

It's important to note that this is not a case of "seen one, seen them all," because each chateau is unique and reflects the personality of whichever French royal commissioned it all those centuries ago -- as a country house, a hunting lodge or a place to stash a mistress or two.

A personal favorite, Chateau de Chenonceau, spans the river Cher and has an intriguing history that includes a stint as a conduit for people escaping Nazis during World War II.

What's more, the chateaus often put on seasonal events, like light shows at night, wine tastings and concerts.

Or spend a few days in castle towns that are a little less likely to draw busloads of tourists, like the Forteresse Royale de Chinon, whose hillside ruins -- complete with interior light displays -- overlook a charming town with winding cobblestone streets, caves for wine tastings -- don't skip the Chinon red -- and dozens of restaurants vying for your attention.

Art lovers can take advantage of Leonardo da Vinci's Galleries, which opened at the Chateau du Clos Luce in the summer of 2021, or the Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau, whose galleries and gardens underwent a massive restoration in 2017 and whose reflection in the river Indre, creating a so-called water mirror, has made it the subject of countless photographs

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