Felicity Long
I was at a dinner the other night when a millennial acquaintance asked me for advice on what to do in Venice in August. My first thought was simply to blurt out, "Don't go to Venice in August."
That said, in the scramble to find off-the-beaten-track destinations in Europe, it's easy to overlook the charms of some of the iconic favorites, and with busy work schedules and children's school vacation constraints, sometimes you can only go when you can go.
With this in mind, I spoke with Eva Polino, an art historian, Italy specialist and licensed guide with Abercrombie & Kent's Tailor Made Journeys, which offers customized experiences for history buffs, foodies, art lovers and oenophiles, among others. The trips are known for insider access to on-the-ground experiences as well as for linking travelers with local specialists.
I approached my conversation with Polino in two ways: First, where else could my young friend go instead of Venice in August?
Noting that the majority of tourists to Italy end up visiting The Big Three -- Rome, Florence and Venice -- she said, "Tuscany is sprinkled with wonderful cities: Pisa is not merely a tower, Lucca is a medieval neighborhood which can also be toured by bike, and Arezzo is another pearl," known for its beautiful pottery.
She also touted the little villages, vineyards, abandoned towns and atmospheric villas near Rome for those who prefer not to face the crowds in the Eternal City.
"My personal favorite is Sperlonga, considered one of the most beautiful villages in the world, high on a rock above the sea... [where] Tiberius, a Roman emperor, had his house," she said.
There are hidden gems in destinations beyond the Big Three, as well.
In southern Italy and the islands, Polino suggested taking a private yacht tour of Sardinia, which boasts a unique culture and dialect as well as beautiful beaches, such as La Maddalena Archipelago, known for its pink sand.
In Sicily, she recommended not only the popular cities of Palermo and Taormina but also Syracuse and the tiny island of Ortigia as well as Modica and Noto, known for their Baroque architecture.
She also put in a plug for Naples, which she said is often overlooked by visitors in a rush to get to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast to the south.
"I used to hate [Naples], going through the pier and one square with a huge bus, but that's not Naples," she said. "The city is filled with hidden treasures and truly wonderful museums that you can only find with a local guide."
Finally, she touted Puglia, with its beautiful Gargano National Park overlooking the sea, its medieval castles, beautiful beaches and, especially, Alberobello, a Unesco World Heritage Center because of its trulli, cylindrical houses topped by cones made of local stone, and where you can sample local cuisine and olive oil.
But what if you really want to go to Venice or Rome in August, I persisted.
Not surprisingly, Polino touted the benefits of working with a knowledgeable guide.
"There are some sites which are well known, so [A&K Tailor Made groups] can go there early in the day or after closing time to avoid the crowds. We can skip the lines and find the best paths and less-crowded hours," she said.
Similarly, in Rome Polino might sandwich a tour of the Studio del Mosaico, where the pope's mosaics are handmade, between visits to the Colosseum and the Vatican.
Bottom line: "We can take you to private collections that are closed to the public, but we arrange to open especially for you," she said, adding that half the fun can just be enjoying scenic sunsets from little-known vantage points or eating with locals at restaurants visitors might have trouble finding on their own.