After my efforts trudging through a snowstorm in early 2000 to Nagano's Jigokudani Monkey Park, I was rewarded with one of nature's most unusual sites: Japanese macaques, or snow monkeys, bathing in the natural hot springs.
I have been back four times since, and each visit I have witnessed the tourism infrastructure evolve in this section of Joshinetsu Kogen National Park (locally known as Shiga Kogen).
The latest addition is a modern gift store in Kambayashi Onsen at the base of the 1.5-mile forest trail to the monkey park.
The store doubles as a hiking-pole and snow-cleat rental facility, with the latter recommended along with boots in winter, the best season to observe the spellbinding anthropomorphic actions ofthe monkeys that dwell there.
Jigokudani, established in 1964, has a small information center open year-round where visitors pay an entrance fee of about $5.
The park hours are 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (April to October) and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. (November to March).
After watching the monkeys bathe before retiring to the hills for the night, visitors can engage in their own bathing rituals in the nearby onsen (hot springs) towns of Kambayashi, Shibu and Yudanaka.
One of the favorite sopping grounds for ofuroholics (a Japanese term for bath lovers) is Yorozuya in Yudanaka Onsen.
The original inn, founded in 1789, has 28 rooms, all with private, indoor hot-spring baths.
Yorozuya also has five public baths, including Momoyama, a traditional open-air bath designated as a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
For those who stay in Shibu Onsen, nine public bathhouses are close by, in addition to the inn's own bathing facilities.
In terms of proximity to Jigokudani Monkey Park, Korakukan is the place to stay.
It's the choice for photographers who want to be first in or last out of the park.
Winters can get cold inside this classic structure, but for countryside authenticity it's hard to beat.
Just don't be surprised if you wake up to Japanese macaques staring in your window or sharing your early morning dip in Korakukan's own outdoor bath.
See www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/english or www.us.jnto.go.jp.