An Amazon education on Delfin sailing

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The Delfin II is a 14-suite, 30-passenger vessel that sails through the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve in northeastern Peru.
The Delfin II is a 14-suite, 30-passenger vessel that sails through the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve in northeastern Peru.

In Disney's "Pocahontas" the title character sings, "What I love most about rivers is you can't step in the same river twice. The water's always changing, always flowing." I couldn't help but agree as I looked out the panoramic window from my suite aboard the Delfin II, one of Delfin Amazon Cruises' luxury river cruise ships.

The jungle's deep-green treetops were reflected in the coffee-tinted water, rich with sediment and aquatic life. Every angle was new and beautiful.

We were cruising through the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve in northeastern Peru, one of the largest protected areas in the country. The four-day cruise sails the Maranon and Ucayali rivers, which merge to create theAmazon River.

The Delfin II is intimate, with just 14 suites and a capacity of 30 passengers. Four of the suites are Master Suites; located at the front of the boat, they have 180-degree views. The remaining 10 are Cabin Suites, four of which interconnect.

Atop the guest suites are two communal spaces. The larger of the two is the open-air observation deck, outfitted with plush sofas and chairs. At the bow is the captain; passengers are able to pop their heads into the bridge any time, to chat with the crew and even try their hand at the wheel. With an average speed of just over 9 mph, you're not likely to move the boat too far off course.

Beyond the observation deck is the deck lounge, an air-conditioned space filled with seating, bookshelves and atmospheric decor, such as a large chess set whose pieces are hand-carved, wooden jungle animals. The lounge doubles as a lecture room where guests can learn about the region's ecology from one of the three naturalists onboard.

There are multiple excursions off the boat every day. Three small skiffs act as transportation (to a jungle hike, to kayaks or to village craft markets) and are used for excursions, too. Skiff activities include bird-watching, piranha-fishing and a night safari to search for the elusive black caiman, a relative of the crocodile.

I found the trail walk to be especially enlightening. It was the only time we set foot on land during our cruise, and the moment we did, we were bombarded with the exotic sights and sounds of the Amazon rain forest. As we made our way up and down the trail, a naturalist educated us on the surrounding plant life, while a local guide scanned the forest for movement. We spotted monkeys, sloths, tarantulas, poison dart frogs, pythons and anacondas. It was a humbling opportunity to briefly enter this world, a natural habitat where animals and vegetation are thriving. No zoo or textbook comes close to doing it justice.

Rates for a four-day cruise aboard the Delfin II start at $3,000 per person, based on double occupancy. See www.delfinamazoncruises.com.

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